Mid-Century in the Hudson Valley
5 iconic homes to tour on your next day trip.
For those of you who know me, you know I love a house tour, and what I like even more is the chance to tour a modern home. Maybe it's because I am lucky enough to live in one. My husband's uncle, who studied under Mies van der Rohe, built our house in 1958 for his sister. While he was not famous, he designed in the style he knew. I feel incredibly lucky to live in what's essentially a work of art. It's sparked my fascination with finding other homes similar to mine and discovering their histories.
My visits have been both inspiring and educational –I've learned a lot about the design ideas that influenced this architectural style and gained more insight into the aesthetic choices.
One similarity that all of these houses share is that they are truly integrated with their surroundings. The landscape is just as important as the house itself, whether it's a sweeping view of thoughtfully sculpted grounds or a limestone patio that seamlessly flows inside. In all of the following homes, you always feel the connection between inside and outdoors.
While there is no shortage of historic houses and mansions to tour in the Hudson Valley, there is a scarcity of mid-century architecture. So whenever the opportunity arises, I jump on it. Below are five MCM (mid-century modern) houses that are open for tours in the area. To make it a complete day trip, I have added a lunch spot.
The Philip Johnson Glass House, New Canaan
Though not technically in the Hudson Valley, I'm including this New Canaan masterpiece because it's the tour of all tours and is only 10 minutes from the New York border. The Glass House and its 49-acre grounds are like a museum in a landscape setting. Built in 1949 as Johnson's personal residence, the 1,815-square-foot house was the first of 14 structures on the property.
The house has glass walls, a brick floor, and minimal furnishings, blending indoor and outdoor spaces in a way previously unseen in residential architecture. Standing in the living room, I felt as though I was outside. And outside, I could see everything inside, except the bathroom. Purposely placed in the center of the floor plan, it provides the only privacy in the house.
For 50+ years, Johnson added buildings to the property as needed, each in a different style. The Brick House is a guest cottage, and contrasts directly with the Glass House. With minimal windows, it's shaped like a brick and, in fact, is constructed entirely from brick. There's also a painting gallery built underground with no natural light that features rotating exhibits. On my visit there were six Frank Stella paintings from Johnson’s personal collection. The sculpture gallery’s ceiling is made entirely of skylights, so light hits the pieces differently throughout the day. The collection of all the buildings on the grounds feels perfectly integrated with the landscape, as if it was always there. But Johnson was quite intentional - he shaped the landscape around his structures to make them work together.
The Glass House is now a National Trust Historic Site, and offers several tour options through the visitor center in New Canaan. On my last visit, we did a self-guided, all-access tour, but there were super-knowledgeable educators scattered throughout who answered all of our questions.
LUNCH IN NEW CANAAN: The Glass House visitor center is conveniently located across from the train station making it the perfect car-less day trip! For lunch I suggest Rosie for hearty salads like a cobb with thick slabs of bacon or a caesar with grilled shrimp. But if you are extra hungry, go for the “Disco Nachos” - french fries instead of tortilla chips.
WolfHouse, Newburgh
Another Philip Johnson project built in the same year as The Glass House, The Wolfhouse is perched on a hill just north of the Newburgh-Beacon Bridge. This four-bedroom, mid-century local secret was commissioned by the Wolf family in 1949, who lived there for 50 years. In 2020, the new owners meticulously restored it to its original condition.
The structure is classic mid-century modern design: an open plan, clean lines, and large plate-glass windows that frame the landscape. These expansive windows provide stunning panoramic views of the Hudson River.
Today, Wolfhouse serves multiple purposes. It functions as a private residence, a cultural space with year-round programming (including art shows), participates in events like Upstate Art Weekend, AND operates as a bookable residence – so you can actually stay here! It's the perfect location for a leaf-peeping getaway in the fall
.LUNCH IN NEWBURGH: There are two areas in Newburgh. Liberty Street, which is like a Main Street with cafes, shops and galleries to stroll in and out of. And the waterfront, which is a more industrial area lined with restaurants. Everyone swears by Hudson Taco by the water. I opted for Little Betty’s Snack Bar on Liberty Street which is like a diner meets hipster market.
The Marcel Breuer House, Pocantico Hills
The Breuer House was originally designed in 1947 for an exhibition on affordable, well-designed suburban homes at the The Museum of Modern Art. The house was first erected in the garden of the museum and architectural drawings were available for purchase in the gift shop. To save the house from demolition after the show, John D. Rockefeller bought it, cut it into four pieces, loaded onto a truck and drove it 20 miles north to the family’s 250-acre estate overlooking the Hudson River. Fitted with electricity and plumbing, it was used for the next 50 years as a guest house by various members of the Rockefeller family.
The house is typical (MCM) style, much like my house with open spaces and floor-to-ceiling windows. It has clever design elements such as placing the bedrooms on either end of the house, allowing children to be in a separate zone from the parents. There are open-air shelves dividing the kitchen and dining areas and sliding doors in practically every room (which, by the way, don't work well in humid months).
The house is now maintained by the David Rockefeller Creative Arts Center, and in 2007, the foundation did a major restoration, including renovating and adding historically-correct furnishings and period fabrics The home now serves as accommodation for artists-in-residence programs, so public tours are therefore infrequent but offered on occasion. Be sure to sign up for the DR newsletter to be notified of the next tour and more of their excellent programming
LUNCH IN TARRYTOWN: There are way too many options in Tarrytown to pick just one! Bibili for Korean bibimbap bowls. PikNik for BBQ. Little B’s for a build your own burger and Mint Premium Foods for a sophisticated middle eastern with a little market area
Manitoga House / Dragon Rock - Garrison
Always a soft spot for me since our very first Go Love NY tour was to Manitoga, the former home and studio of industrial designer Russel Wright. Tucked into an abandoned quarry in Garrison, Dragon Rock is another exquisite example of organic modern architecture. The house is surrounded by 75 acres of trails which Wright intentionally designed in circular paths.
As you enter the house from the path, you're struck by how it seems to emerge from the rocky quarry. In fact, the house blends so much into the landscape, you can barely notice it. Besides The roof being covered with grass, there are large rocks that continue from inside to out. The ground is the same on both sides - one continuous piece of stone. The floor-to-ceiling windows and doors in the living room contribute to the "am I inside or outside?" feeling.
Most of the original furniture is still in place, which helps make you feel like you're a real guest of Wright's. Visiting is only available by guided tour; you will learn not just about the history of the grounds but also Russel Wright and his work in the newly opened gallery.
LUNCH IN COLD SPRING: It seems whenever I go to Cold Spring, everyone else decides to do the same, so I like to find a bench and pick up a sandwich from Cold Spring Cheese Shop or a loaded Cheddar Scone from Angie's Bake Shop. My newest discovery is Cafe Silvia at Maggazino Italian Art for a European museum cafe vibe.
Chahroudi House, Petra Island
This 1,200-square-foot guest cottage was built by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1951 on Petra Island, in the middle of Lake Mahopac. The small cottage blends seamlessly with the island's rocky terrain with stunning lake views. The four large floor to ceiling doors in the living room completely open up so when you are inside it feels like outside. .
Wright was originally commissioned by the Chahroudi family to build a much larger house overlooking the lake but the local planning board required a 30-foot setback from the water. The cottage was supposed to be a temporary house while they fought with the planning board but they ran out of money and the larger house never came to fruition.
The story doesn't end there. In 2007, new owners of the 11-acre island stumbled upon some of Wright's original drawings for the main house. Inspired, the next year, they built a 5,000-square-foot residence. While not recognized as an authentic Wright creation, this larger house is impressive, drawing heavily from his designs and featuring a massive cantilever balcony which juts over the lake.
The island, including both the original Wright-designed cottage and this newer, Wright-inspired home, are also available for overnight stays! It’s an amazing opportunity to get a glimpse into living in a famous architect’s house just 50 miles north of New York City.
LUNCH IN MAHOPAC: I didn’t have time for lunch on my last visit, but Brooklyn Organic Kitchen and Freight House Cafe are two that were recommended by our tour guides.
Other MCM architecture in the area
IBM Thomas J. Watson Research Center, Yorktown Heights.
Designed by Eero Saarinen in 1961. A private research facility, but they sometimes offer limited public tours.
The Ferry House at Vassar College, Poughkeepsie.
Designed by Marcel Breuer in 1951. A cooperative option for about 20 Students
Usonia Historic District, Pleasantville
A planned community of about 50 homes designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and his students.
Do you want to live in an modern house?
Philip Johnson’s first commissioned house is currently for sale in Bedford!
Let me know your favorite mid-century buildings in the comments. I'm excited to learn about them!
Great material Robin. And so helpful. I’ve wanted to visit the glass house for years. And now I will!! Thanks