How to Upstate Art Weekend
My tips on navigating the Hudson Valley’s biggest art event. (July 18-21, 2024)
I first heard of Upstate Art Weekend (UPAW) from my art dealer friend, Karin, who casually dropped it into a sentence one day as if "everyone" knew about it. It took just a quick bit of research to figure out that UPAW is an amazing sprawling art event that happens every July in the Hudson Valley. By sprawling, I mean all of the participating venues hold events spanning ten counties across the Catskills Mountains and Hudson Valley.
UPAW is a mashup of exhibitions and events at museums, local galleries, artist residencies, and site-specific installations – all jam-packed into one four-day weekend! Participating venues host special shows, lectures, studio tours, house tours, and even the occasional film or dance performance (although the primary focus is art). Some galleries may even host cocktail receptions, making it extra festive. What makes UPAW so awesome is that, even though many of these spots are open year-round, the collaboration during one weekend makes you feel like you’re part of something bigger, a true community event. Everyone around you is eager to chat and trade tips on where to go next – you may decide to change your plan on the fly. bonus is getting to drive through Upstate NY’s gorgeous July landscapes, making it a true summer getaway.
UPAW was started in 2020 by arts organizer Helen Toomer of Stoneleaf Retreat (an Artist Residency supporting women). All the big names participate – Dia, Storm King, Magazzino, Hessel Museum, Hudson River Museum, etc... But what I love most is discovering the lesser-known hidden gems, like TSpace, Jack Shainman's The School in Kinderhook, and the Wassaic Project.
There are more than 145 participants this year, so I couldn’t begin to cover the full lineup. What I can tell you is that navigating UPAW in one weekend is daunting – you won’t even make a dent in the list, and that’s ok After a few years of attending, my strong suggestion is to pick an anchor for each day – a special event or a venue that requires a reservation. My first year, I chose a timed entry to TSpace with a guided tour of the grounds; last year, a lecture at the Ellsworth Kelly Foundation; This year, I’m buying tickets to a performance at the Al Held Foundation in Boiceville. I’m not going to stay overnight, but if I did, I would definitely check out Olaf Breuning’s film “Woodworld” which is being shown in a forest after dark.
Once you've got your "anchor event" locked in, take a good look at the UPAW map (a work of art in itself!) to plan your route. I like to make one or two stops on either end, with lunch and snack breaks, plus a good dinner, of course. Keep that map handy throughout the day so you can be a little spontaneous along the way. (Note: I am pretty good at looking at a map on my phone, but if you prefer an actual printed UPAW, it gets published in the July issue of Chronogram.
Eating
Much as I’m giving it my best shot, I still haven’t eaten at all the food spots in the Hudson Valley here are a few of my favorites in different towns. Some are close to the art venues, and others are worth a little detour.
If you find yourself at the Wassaic Project, then The Lantern Inn is a must for some of the best pizza in the HV. They don't open until 4:00 pm, so it's perfect for dinner at the end of a long day. Or, if you’re in the area earlier, check out their sister spot, Ten Mile Table, a little market and bakery with goods from Vitksy Bakery, another local fave.
The Knitting Mill in Kinderhook is an 1870s renovated textile mill with three places to eat, including Morning Bird, an all-day cafe with things like Hudson Valley Trout Larb and Mochi Donuts, and a cute farmers market on Saturdays. September Gallery, always an UPAW participant, is also right in the Mill, so make sure to stop by.
Café Silvia at Magazzino Italian Art in Cold Spring really has that European museum cafe vibe – upscale, welcoming, and unpretentious. The light-filled space has floor-to-ceiling windows that open onto a patio, so it feels both cozy and airy. They do very good Italian classics, such as frittatas, panini, and simple pastas. (Even my Italian family would approve.)
Bartlett House in Ghent sells outstanding bread all over the HV, so their cafe menu has the best sandwiches around. Breakfast classics like egg and cheddar taste soooooo much better on a homemade English muffin. I always pick up an Epi Baguette (a baguette covered in black & white sesame seeds) and a sourdough loaf to take home.
I’ve written a lot about the many great restaurants and cafes in Kingston, but Village Coffee is, hands down, what I look forward to every time we’re up there. It's way more than just a coffee place; yes, the coffee gluten-free baked goods are excellent, but they also offer seasonal salads and grain bowls that are so simple but always just right.
Lodging
Lodging can be tricky this time of year, because most places require a two-night minimum. Personally, I prefer day trips so I can come home to my own bed. But if you're looking to make more of a weekend getaway of it, here are a few places I like:
Kingsley Hotel, Kingston
A collection of four renovated buildings in Kingston's Stockade District with comfortable, stylish mid-century design.
Hutton Brickyards, Kingston
A 43-room spa hotel with little cabins dotting the Hudson River.
The Roundhouse, Beacon
A collection of textile and form manufacturing factories on Fishkill Creek in Beacon. It was renovated in 2010 and is a popular spot for weddings and big events. The location can’t be beat, since it's within walking distance to Beacon’s Main Street, which is worth a day trip visit.
Sylvan Motor Lodge, Hillsdale
An Airbnb in a renovated motel with ten bedrooms and a couple of Airstreams. If it's booked, I would bookmark this for another time and plan a different weekend there with a bunch of friends.
Spring Hill Farm, Hillsdale
A beautifully renovated Airbnb farmhouse with both a main house and an apartment.
The Starlite Motel, Kerhonkson
I have never actually stayed here, but it's been on my list for years. It reminds me of what The Schitt's Creek Motel would look like if Stevie and Johnny had hired a Brooklyn hipster to renovate.
AndNorth
A great resource for a collection of upstate properties perfectly curated by Emma Tuccillo.
The Wick, Hudson
A renovated candle factory at the bottom of Warren Street. Nice big rooms, easy parking and dogs are very welcome.
My 2024 evolving plan
This is what my plan looks like so far, but I know it will change as the day gets closer.
Al Held Foundation My confirmed anchor event! I have a 12:30 pm reservation for a performance by Devynn Emory + Michelle Segre and a group show at the foundation. See you there :)
Wolfson House A Philip Johnson-designed mid-century house in Newburg with tours during the weekend. I am waiting to make a reservation, and what I get will determine the rest of the day.
Willa’s, Catskill - A bakery/cafe I have been wanting to try with nice-sounding grain bowls.
Citiot, Sort of a modern general store, turned gallery for the weekend
Thomas Cole House - Another one that has always been on my list if we end up in Catskill.
StoneLeaf Retreat - This is like UPAW headquarters! Seven artists from the residency program will have works on display.
Let me know if you go, and we might bump into each other somewhere along the way!
Thanks for this incredible info!