Exploring Kingston
Where to eat, shop and stay in New York State’s first capital.
I thought Kingston would be similar to other Hudson Valley towns like Beacon, Hudson, or Katonah. Park at one end of a main street, walk up the hill, and back down again for a quick sense of the town. I was wrong because Kingston is a city. It's a surprisingly bigger city than I expected, and covering it in just one day is nearly impossible. This first capital of New York State has three lively and diverse commercial districts, each bursting with restaurants, galleries, historic sites, small shops, and authenticity. On my first visit, I only checked out one area because I didn't know about the others. I have since discovered each has its little special something.
The areas are called Uptown or the Stockade District, Midtown, and Rondout or the waterfront. Each district has its own vibe.
Uptown Kingston, also known as "The Stockade," covers about eight blocks and gets its name from the stockade built by Governor Peter Stuyvesant in the mid-1600s to protect residents from Native American raids. The neighborhood is organized on a grid and is very strollable. You'll notice an abundance of Dutch and Victorian architecture. Some of the city's oldest landmarks, such as the Old Dutch Church or the Senate House, are here. Wall Street and North Front are lined with pastel-colored buildings, making it feel cozy and quaint. It's a perfect outing for shopping, eating, and exploring the architecture.
Rondout District is on the waterfront where Rondout Creek meets the Hudson River. It used to be a bustling port in the 19th century, and you can really sense its maritime past with the boatyards, old ferry terminal, and renovated brick and cement factories. The Hudson River Maritime Museum is small but packed with information about the importance of the port and the local building materials industry. Broadway is the main drag, with a mix of older shops, long-established galleries, restaurants, and wine bars scattered with hipper and trendier spots. My favorite lunch place so far is Rosie's General for the mortadella and whipped ricotta sandwich.
Midtown is Kingston's more industrial neighborhood and has become an epicenter of creativity in Ulster County since many artists and entrepreneur types have moved into the area and have taken studio spaces. It's not really a "walking" neighborhood, but there is a cluster of restaurants along Broadway, which is the big road heading down to the Rondout. The Fuller Building, a former furniture factory, is now the workspace of many artists and bespoke clothing and furniture designers. Fuller occasionally hosts open studios, markets, and workshops, and recently, I took a fantastic ceramic workshop at L’Impatience.
Kingston is, of course, also surrounded by nature. The Catskill Mountains are to the west, the Shawangunks to the south, and the Hudson River to the east, making it perfect to combine a trip with something outdoorsy. The newly expanded Empire State Trail runs right through town.
Since Kingston is big, I can only cover some things. Below are some favorite spots I recently visited or that are on my list for next time:
SHOPPING
Lovefield Vintage - If it weren’t for the name, I would have no idea this was a vintage store. Super clean and very in style, mainly women’s clothing and accessories (Uptown)
River Mint Finery - The outdoor rack of nicely designed cozy wear lured me in. Classic cashmere sweaters, simple pottery from Lauren HB, and minimalist jewelry taken up a notch. The store felt as if West Elm were a women’s clothing store. (Uptown)
Hamilton & Adams - Owners Andrew & Clark trademarked the phrase "Upstate and Chill." It is a men's and women's clothing store full of clothes perfect for chilling upstate - cozy and stylish. Even I, who rarely buys anything with wording, bought a sweatshirt that says "Upstate," which I proudly wear around Westchester (Uptown).
Blue Cashew is one of my favorite shops for kitchenware. It’s Full of things I already own or didn’t know I needed, like these Royal Copenhagen mugs. (Uptown)
Kingston Consignments - Jam-packed consignment shop and antique center. Two overflowing floors of vintage everything. Clothing, kitchenware, decorations, and furniture. The day I went, I found four vintage Nick and Nora glasses. (Uptown)
Kingston Farmers Market - Uptown's impressive year-round market is located at the Old Dutch Church on Saturdays. Over 20 vendors sell fresh and locally seasonal meat, produce, cheese, baked goods, prepared foods, beer, and more. (Uptown)
L'impatience Ceramics - A beautiful studio selling modern minimalist ceramics and occasionally hosting pottery workshops. Located in the Fuller Building. (Midtown)
Spruce Design + Decor - A nice mix of antique and modern furnishings. Plus, they have lots of bar tools and accessories. (Located in Rondout)
Clove & Creek - Feels like an old-fashioned mercantile with well-curated home goods such as table linens, aprons, candles, and dishes. (Rondout)
EATING
Kingston Bread + Bar - Baked goods and sandwiches with a little extra twist. I'm still thinking about the Reuben broccoli-rabe sandwich I had one time. (Uptown)
Rough Draft - An old-fashioned bookstore with a café serving coffee and beer with comfy big leather chairs to settle into, surrounded by books. (Uptown)
Diego’s Taqueria - Though I haven’t been, it has been highly recommended for street-style tacos and corn chowder. (Uptown)
Brunette Wine Bar - Low intervention and natural wine from all over the world with a constantly changing menu. Trout Roe Nachos are a crowd-pleaser. Who doesn’t like caviar on a potato chip? (Rondout)
Lola Pizza - Whenever Kingston is mentioned, everyone always talks about Lola's. It is a wood-fired pizza place with interesting toppings like robiola, pear, and black fig drizzle. Unfortunately, the last couple of times I was in town, it was either closed or I had just eaten elsewhere. (Uptown)
Kinsley Hotel Restaurant - Right in the center of the Stockade District, in a renovated bank building from the 1860s. Chef Zak Pelaccio developed the locally sourced seasonal menu. With only five entrees to choose from, it was a difficult decision. Between the four of us, we tried almost all of them. I went classic with a cheeseburger and sautéed kale but kept stealing bites from my daughter’s three-mushroom pasta. The big, cozy room with orange velvet banquettes and a fireplace in the center was a great escape after a cold winter hike. (Uptown)
Sissy’s Cafe - I haven't made it here yet, but the sandwiches are on my list for next time. (Uptown)
Rosie General is kind of a deli, sort of a bakery, and a little bit of a grocery store. It’s mixed with a quirky atmosphere of vintage furniture and mismatched silverware, giving it a cozy, welcoming vibe. The last time I went, I had an egg salad sandwich with coffee, just like my grandma. The bakery makes an exceptional Olive Oil Lemon Cake. (Rondout)
Village Coffee and Goods - Way more than just a cafe with excellent coffee and many gluten-free baked goods. They offer salads and grain bowls that change seasonally. It's so simple, but I haven’t quite figured out how to replicate the shiitake quinoa, bok choy, and kimchi bowl. The best! I finished off with a banana/peanut butter cookie. I would move to Kingston for Village Coffee alone. (Midtown)
Kingston Standard - Small batch craft beer and pizza. Period. (Midtown)
HOTELS
Hutton Brickyards - A former brick factory renovated with luxury suites and cottages on the water. (On the Hudson River )
The Hotel Kinsley - In the center of the Stockade district, four distinct 19th-century buildings, including a restored bank building, make up this hotel. We stayed at 270 Fair Street, a renovated 1870s steam and gas fitter company. You would never know it from the pristine mid-century furnished rooms. (Uptown)
There is so much more to see and do. Let me know what I missed for my next visit!