Tivoli, NY
A small Hudson Valley village you might overlook - but shouldn’t
There are so many towns to visit in the Hudson Valley that the tiniest ones are often easy to skip. Tivoli is one of those – just a few blocks long – but that’s exactly the point. It’s small, and that’s what makes it great.
After a recent girls weekend at Spa Mirbeau in Rhinebeck (More about that in a future post!), my friend Heidi and I made a last minute decision to check out Tivoli. It was one of those blue-sky spring days that makes everything seem better, and the village vibe matched the weather – relaxed, easy, just enough going on.
Here's what we saw, ate, and loved:
Hotel Tivoli
Though we didn’t stay the night, we were able to go inside, and I will definitely be booking here in the future. Owned by artist Brice Marden and his wife Helen, it kind of feels like a personal art project. The interiors are full of color and character, but not in a “trying too hard” way. There’s art throughout – some from the Mardens’ collection – and each room is designed with little pops of color that somehow feel both unexpected and exactly right. Like the napkins at the restaurant, the bed frames, the walls. But it’s also unfussy. You actually don’t need to stay overnight to get a bit of the experience – The Corner, the hotel’s restaurant and bar, is open for cocktails, dinner, and Sunday brunch. There’s also The Corner Store next door, where you can buy the same French napkins (Le Jacquard Français) and ceramics used throughout the hotel. Such a thoughtful little trio of spaces.
Tivoli General
Sometimes, you walk into a space and can just tell that it’s the gathering spot. Here, there were tons of friendly faces grabbing sandwiches, chatting, and leaving their dogs outside. Grab a lunch like chicken salad or ham and swiss on thick bread, or one of their homemade soups. There's a big table to share inside, but the outdoor tables were buzzing.
Fortune’s Ice Cream
I’m usually not an ice cream person – I skip it nine times out of ten – but every time I mentioned Tivoli to anyone, all they could talk about was the ice cream. I am glad I listened, because I’m now completely sold on the labne sour cherry – tart, creamy, and not too sweet. Heidi got some sort of peanut butter thing that was also outstanding.
GioBatta Alimentari
The huge, shady porch with people lingering over coffee is what lured me in. Inside, it’s half Italian restaurant, half little market. I have to admit I’ve become a bit of a pasta snob (thanks to my Italian niece, Sophie), and they stock two of her favorites: Martelli and Pasta Faella. These are hard to find even in NYC, so seeing them here felt like, oh, they get it. The rest of the shop is just as well-curated, and the menu looked exactly like the kind of low-key, good Italian I’m always in the mood for because it feels like visiting my family.
What I Missed (Next Time!)
There were a few places we didn’t get to – Club Sandwich, Tivoli Bread & Baking, and the Tivoli Artists Gallery, to name a few – but the beauty of a town this small is that it’s easy to return and not feel overwhelmed. A few shops looked worth stopping into: Thrift2Fight, and Fabulous Yarn.
Getting There
It’s about two hours from NYC. If you’re already in the Hudson Valley, it’s an easy add-on – especially if you’re into art or historic homes.
Hessel Museum of Art and CCS Bard
Bard’s contemporary art museum feels surprisingly major for the area. The collection is big, the shows are smart, and it’s always worth checking what’s on. It’s just five minutes from Tivoli.
Olana
The former home of Hudson River School painter Frederic Church, with views that look like one of his landscapes. You can walk the trails for free, but the house tour is 100% worth it if you’re into design and historic interiors. About 15 minutes away.
Staatsburgh State Historic Site (Ogden Mills Mansion)
Gilded Age drama on the Hudson. A 79-room estate with all its original furnishings – oil paintings, Ming vases, and a jaw-dropping dining room perfectly framed by river views. Feels like stepping into Downton Abbey. (Public tours are offered all year) It’s about a 30-minute drive.
Tivoli doesn’t feel like it’s trying to be anything. It’s just a little village with good food, a few great spots, and a low-key local vibe that makes you want to stay a little longer than you planned, especially when the weather’s right. And yes—Tivoli spelled backwards is I LOV IT. Coincidence?