How to have a 30 hour Vacation
Upstate Winter Itinerary / 4 meals, 3 walks, and lots of shopping
The perfect vacation getaway can be short. Since flying is not always an option, my family has started a road-trip tradition. We get in the car and road trip for however many hours we have. Last month, we hit Hudson and Rhinebeck. For 30 hours.
We left the house late morning so we didn't have to get up and out super early. And, bonus, we get to pick a lunch spot right away. Our first stop was Bread Alone Bakery in Rhinebeck. As soon as we got out of the car, we truly felt like we had just gotten off a flight somewhere far away (sans jet lag). Those of you in the area may be familiar with their San Francisco Sourdough and croissants from farmer markets and specialty food stores. But everything at the restaurant – from Egg & Cheese on a Brioche to a Chicken Club to a Kale Salad – is just that much better because the breads are straight out of the oven and everything is locally sourced. Come for the baked goods but stay for the tomato soup and thick-slabbed grilled cheese with caramelized onions. Hello, vacation!
Rhineback has two main streets lined with so many cute shops (see: PaperTrail and Cesare+Lili), we could have spent all afternoon there. Our family loves to shop local! A few highlights:
Darylls - Remember Daryll’s from the 90s on the Upper West Side? I was soooo excited to see that, not only is it still around, but there is also a location in Rhinebeck! I scored a bright red short-sleeve vest and my daughter splurged on a blue plaid cashmere sweater.
Changes - This store somehow manages to have exactly whatever a man needs right now. My husband snagged a new sweater because the temperature dropped that morning (how convenient for him!). And bright orange wool socks, because who ever says no to orange?
Hammertown - An awesome housewares shop, featuring Chilewich table linens, Laguiole Steak Knives, candles from True Grace and lots of sheepskin throws and perfectly-curated vintage furniture. There is also a small but thoughtful selection of jewelry, where Daughter #2 found an adorable little gold bracelet.
Back in the car.
For years, I have heard about Poets Walk, but this was our first time. What an amazing spot – 120 acres of rolling hills with an breathtaking view of the Hudson River. With this description from their website –– celebrate the connection between landscape and poetry, a designed landscape which is considered a series of ‘outdoor rooms’ separated by rows of trees and stone walls” – but it did actually feel like we were walking through a poem.
Back in the car.
On to Hudson, where we checked into the Wick Hotel, an 1860s former-candle-factory-turned-boutique hotel on Front Street (by the train station and not actually the main street). With 55 rooms, it feels much more like a proper hotel than some of the smaller inns or B&B’s in the area. Plus, it's dog friendly! Make sure to look for the secret staircase from the back of the hotel which leads up to Talbot & Arding, a beloved cheese and provisions store which recently moved to this bigger, newer location.
We ate a late dinner at Wm Farmer & Son, a traditional farm-to-table kind of place with a menu that changes slightly each week depending what’s in season. I ordered the Violet Caramelized Cabbage and Fried Chicken Sandwich. And because, we never say no to bread pudding, we got one for dessert, with four forks.
The main drag in Hudson is Warren Street and it’s long – more than a mile! So, we woke up and did not one but two walks up and down the sidewalks. We’re early risers, so the first was a brisk exercise walk with the dog with a little window shopping. Later in the morning, we strolled up to the The Maker Hotel which was clearly THE place to be. They don’t take reservations for breakfast, but it was worth the wait. All of the baked goods are baked daily at the Bartlett House, a favorite bakery in Ghent. Croissant sandwiches, muffins and avocado toasts. Velvet chairs and little marble tables, it felt like Paris. Next time, I will hit the cocktail bar at the end of the day and try a fragrance inspired drink.
After breakfast, fully fueled, we hit the sidewalk again. Here’s what we found:
UnRacked - A trendy but reasonably affordable women’s clothing store, with buckets of penny candy sprinkled around for snacking. Scarlett got highrise flared jeans and Clementine bought a pair of chunky chelsea boots on sale.
The Social Type - An absolutely beautiful, modern stationary and card shop. Everything is organized by color, which of course speaks to the graphic designer in me. Shelves and shelves of journals, racks of note pads and fun splurge worthy gift wrap. Like the Moleskin store on steroids.
Mountain Top Outfitters - This place feels like Burlington Vermont. It has everything outdoorsy – Cotopaxi beanies in every bright-colored combination you can think of, Patagonia, The Northface, and more brands I didn’t know about. Something for everyone in the family!
The Hudson Clothier - This shop for men and women is the Hudson cliche. Shop here if you want to look like you are from Brooklyn – highrise jeans, flannel shirts, quilted vests, crossbody bags. and more.
Verdigris Tea & Chocolate Bar - Not only THE best hot chocolate, but they also sell teapots and coffee mugs, beautifully arranged by color.
Kitty’s - This restaurant came highly recommended but was sadly closed during our visit, so our final Hudson meal was at…
Grazin - A retro grass-fed burger joint. We shared a Classic with fries and a tasty veggie burger made from beets, beans and cashews.
After leaving Hudson, we still had time in our day to squeeze in one final adventure so we made a last-minute detour to check out Olana House. Advance booking is required for an indoor tour, but the grounds are open to everyone. The estate was originally home to local painter Frederic Edwin Church. We took a low key walk with stunning views reminiscent of Hudson River School landscape paintings.
Our 30 hours were spent entirely in the Hudson Valley, but we had surreal moments of feeling far, far away. Love a vacation!
