Go Beyond NY: Copenhagen
My new favorite city for walking and eating.
Introducing and welcome to Go Beyond NY! In this a new edition to the GLNY newsletter, I will share special places to see, fun things to do and itineraries beyond New York. First up is Copenhagen….
Last month, we were lucky enough to visit our daughter in Copenhagen, who was lucky enough to be studying there for the semester. After my first stroll on Ved Stranden, a cobble stoned street along a canal where we sat on a bench, eating the best curried-egg salad sandwich ever, I was ready to move there. Turns out everyone who visits has the same idea. The city just works. It's very clean without being sterile, the architecture is stunning, and the food was memorable. Plus, we had picture-perfect weather!
Like most of our trips to cities, we spent most of our time walking and eating. The city is small and easy to navigate, with so many charming neighborhoods. In each new area, we’d say “maybe this should be our neighborhood.” Copenhagen also makes eating well just so effortless, owing much to the acclaimed Noma, which has been hailed as the "best restaurant in the world." In the past decade, countless well-trained Noma chefs and employees have ventured out on their own. While our budget didn't allow for Noma’s $700 per person prix fixe menu, our friend Jeff's well-curated list helped us navigate where to go.
WHERE WE ATE
Barr - This was definitely one of my favorite meals. The vibe of this renovated 17th-century warehouse is rustic, cozy and sleekly modern. The menu is traditionally Nordic, with modern starters like spring salad on grilled flatbread with bone marrow, lettuce and herbs, and gravad (beef carpaccio) with lumpfish roe, grandma dressing and elderflower. I am still dreaming about the butter poached ling (a local fish) with fjord shrimp sauce. We also shared the best schnitzel I have ever had.
Sanchez - This contemporary Mexican restaurant is in the heart of Vesterbro. The set menu made it easy to not have to decide. Carnitas tacos are taken to another level with confit of pork belly, escabeche jalapeños and charred kale. Horchata jasmine rice ice cream with almond and cinnamon was my favorite dessert of the entire trip.
Reffen - Not just an open air street food market, Reffen is the culinary hub of Copenhagen, where chefs from all over the world sell their food in a 1.5 acre village created entirely from shipping containers. The chefs run their stalls for three years while learning how to stand on their own feet (literally!) and build a business. It felt a little like Brooklyn’s Smorgasburg, but perhaps more mission-driven. After visiting Copenhagen Contemporary, we went to Reffen for lunch and shared everything we could get our hands on – Kurdish shish kabobs, an Afghani chicken sandwich, Korean fried chicken and tacos al pastor from Guadalajara.
Kødbyens Fiskebar - Located in the renowned meatpacking district, this vibrant area resembles a sprawling parking lot adorned with restaurants that offer outdoor dining, creating a fun party vibe. The seafood from yesterday’s catch was hyper local and super fresh. We ate blue mussels steamed in apple cider with herbs and double cream, six different kinds of oysters, and tried “Hipsy Cabbage” which was cabbage “carpaccio” with parsley root cream, pickled leeks and salted trout roe.
Atelier September - The hippest breakfast place in town, with stepped-up brunch classics like thinly sliced avocado toast sprinkled with aleppo pepper. I know a soft boiled egg should taste the same everywhere, but the presentation with buttered black bread was perfect with my flat white coffee.
Polly - In the heart of Frederiksberg, a charming neighborhood on the westside of town, Polly is sophisticated without being pretentious, with a very friendly staff. We sat outside on a sunny day and stayed for hours without feeling rushed, enjoying their simple menu with items like chicken caesar salad, risotto with morels & asparagus and a glass of white burgundy.
Ruby - Set in a renovated townhouse from 1740, this quirky cocktail bar offers creative drinks like Purple Mojito, garnished with tarragon and purple shiso leaves, or a Scarlet Negroni featuring saffron and olive oil. Back in the 17th century, the entire area was known for dive bars for fishermen and farmers to hang.
Gasoline Grill - On everyone’s list, this renovated gas station serves up the best organic burgers served plain, with cheese or with a big schmear of Danish butter. There is always a line and limited outdoor seats. We opted to have a picnic in KogensHave Park, since it was a Monday night, when most restaurants are closed. They also have an outpost in the airport if you need one more burger before you leave. And you will.
Khmer Cuisine - On our very last night, we didn’t have a reservation anywhere but instead wandered to Store Kongensgade hoping to find something Asian, and we did. Cambodian food is similar to Vietnamese but, in my opinion, better, with lots of lemongrass, galangal and turmeric. We ate rice noodles with lots of fresh vegetables, summer rolls and larb. There were plenty of appealingly tangy dipping sauces.
Black Swan - This is a bar with a beer menu featuring 14 beer taps, specializing in beers from Danish microbreweries. Like an English pub, you can request whatever glass size you want, plus a bag of chips.
THINGS WE DID
Rent a GoBoat: The perfect way to get to know the city, this two hour electric boat rental allows you to explore Copenhagen's harbor and canals. Driving an electric boat is very easy, no nautical experience is necessary. But plan ahead and bring snacks or cocktails – or both!
The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art - This modern art museum is located on the shore of the Øresund Sound in Humlebæk, and well worth the 30 minute train ride out of the city. The outdoor sculpture garden can’t be beat, with pieces you will recognize from Jean Arp, Alexander Calder, and Henry Moore. Tucked away in a basement is a Kusama infinity room which is always a crowd pleaser. Go early in the day to avoid the crowds. I picked up a delicious salmon avocado sandwich at the train station for the ride home. Only in Europe is food from the train station worth writing about!
Copenhagen Contemporary - Set in Refshaleøen, a former industrial area situated on an island in the inner harbor of Copenhagen, which felt very much like Red Hook. CC is known for its expansive exhibition space of 75,000 square feet, allowing them to showcase large-scale installations, immersive artworks, and multimedia presentations. The site specific works of James Turell and Doug Wheeler were especially phenomenal.
Run at Kastellet Park - Kastellet Park is a well-preserved fortress from the 17th century. It was originally built to protect the city from potential invasions. The star-shaped design with moats and ramparts is a perfect place for an early morning run, which I did several times.
NEIGHBORHOODS
There are so many cute neighborhoods we didn’t have time for all of them, but here are a few that stood out:
Frederiksberg: This is the one we ultimately all agreed would be our neighborhood when we make the move to Copenhagen. :-). I remember reading somewhere that if Copenhagen had a little Paris, it would be Frederiksberg. An upscale residential neighborhood located just west of central Copenhagen, with lots of cafes, Scandinavian interior shops, vintage stores and the beautiful Frederiksberg Gardens, a 158-acre park, filled with perfectly manicured lawns, colorful flower beds, and lots of very old trees. It felt like stepping into a fairytale right in the center of the city!
Norrebro A hipper and more diverse area of Copenhagen with quirky cafes, lively street life, and many ethnic restaurants. And the Assistens Cemetery, where Hans Christian Andersen was buried.
Christianshavn A charming little neighborhood that reminded me of Amsterdam with cafes and historic buildings lining small canals. Home to the famous Freetown, a self-proclaimed autonomous neighborhood with communal living.
Indre By - The neighborhood where our Airbnb was located, aptly named the "inner city," It is very convenient to everything. From the iconic Nyhavn, where brightly colored facades line a canal, to the charming cobblestone streets leading to endless shops and restaurants, Indre By was the perfect starting point for our Copenhagen adventure.
Let me know what I missed, I can’t wait to go back!
