Day Trip: Historic Hyde Park
Warning, this tour is not about FDR
Finally, Val-Kill is open for tours!
I have attempted to visit the famous-yet-humble abode of Eleanor Roosevelt for many years. The first time was during the government shutdown of 2019. (Remember that?) Then I tried to go during the pandemic when things opened up. And then, because there is so much to experience at Hyde Park itself, I’m usually out of time before making it to Eleanor’s place. So last Friday, my friend Niki and I decided to make it the central part of our day trip, along with a visit to the Ogden Mills Mansion if we had time…and we did. The two homes couldn't be more different, yet both held fascinating stories within their walls.
First stop was Val-Kill. Pro tip: There is no online booking and, for a guided tour, you must reserve in person on the day of. Arriving 30 minutes early gives you enough time to walk the grounds and watch a short film before a tour time at the visitor center.
Our guide, Dani, was an exceptionally knowledgeable park ranger. She had an answer for everything! She taught us not just about the many structures on the compound, but also fascinating facts about Eleanor and what she accomplished during her time at Val-Kill. For many years, her two best friends lived on the property in Stone Cottage; the three women tirelessly supported the Democratic party. For more than thirty years, Eleanor wrote “My Day” a daily syndicated column where she passionately advocated for human rights.
Val-Kill Cottage, a modest, two-story stucco building, was initially the home of Val-Kill Industries, a furniture factory that Eleanor and her friends established as a way for local farmers and tradesmen to produce goods and earn a living during the Great Depression. It eventually became Eleanor's home after Franklin's death, and also actually the only residence that she personally owned.
After Eleanor’s death in 1962, the house was painstakingly photographed when her heirs attempted to sell it. But the sale never went through, and the town of Hyde Park pushed for it to be saved in her honor and, in 1977, it was declared a National Historic Site. Because of the detailed photographs, historians and curators were able to restore each room to exactly how it looked when Eleanor lived there. From each photo or piece of art on the wall to every book in the bookcases, the original pieces have been brought back or exact replicas have been created. You will even notice her throw pillows on the sofa and papers on her desk. The only area that stood out as somewhat staged was one corner of the living room, where a tea set is set out; apparently, this is the spot where she and JFK sat as he asked her to support his candidacy.
Despite her privileged background, Eleanor chose to live modestly. Most of the walls are lined with photographs of family, famous dignitaries and school children who she hosted at the cottage, making the living room feel cozy and intimate. The table-sized radio sat in between two unmatched, comfy chairs – you could imagine her sinking in and listening to what was happening in the world. Clearly, Eleanor’s life at Val-Kill wasn’t about lavish parties or possessions – it was about creating community and making a real difference in people’s lives.
Fifteen minutes later, we completely shifted gears as we hit our next stop and stepped onto the grounds of Ogden-Mills Mansion. The rolling green lawn sprawling from the back of the house down to the Hudson River felt like a fairy tale. Our docent led us into the house, which was like Downton Abbey. There was money on display here. Money. Lots of money. Originally built in 1832 and expanded to over 90 rooms in the 1890’s, the mansion was home to Ruth Livingston Mills and her husband Ogden, one of America’s richest and philanthropic families.
The opulent mansion is a perfect example of the Gilded Age. A prominent social figure of her time, Ruth clearly embraced a life of luxury. She hobnobbed with the Vanderbilts down the road and summered with the Astors in Newport. The house was built to replicate the grand estates of England down to every last detail. From countless sets of china in the butler’s pantry to the roomy woman’s servants quarters in the attic, every corner seems to whisper tales of glamor, high society and the indulgent lifestyle that accompanied it.
Entering the dining room, everyone in our group simultaneously said “wow” as our jaws dropped. The beautiful table was set as if 10 guests were expected. But the massive room could accommodate many more – up to 19 leaves could be added to the table for a lavish dinner party. Apparently it was completely intentional – Ruth wanted her guests to be wowed as they came in and saw the the impeccable table settings and stunning view of the Hudson from the ornate window frames.
The hallways are also intentionally lined with paintings of the Mill’s notable ancestors, so right away you are reminded of the importance of the family. Ruth’s grandfather, Robert R. Livingston, was a Founding Father of the United States and a member of the committee that drafted the Declaration of Independence. Ogden’s father co-founded the Bank of California and played a significant role in the development of the western United States. When Ruth and Ogden passed away, their daughters donated the house and all of its contents to New York State. Everything, including ancient vases from the Ming dynasty to thousands of books in the library, is exactly how they left it.
These two contrasting Hudson River homes really offer a peek into history, and, especially seen on the same outing, it’s hard not to notice the very, very different ways that these two women existed in the world.
What about lunch?
The only lunch option between Val-kill and Mills Mansion is Eveready Dinner, a classic old school diner with a massive menu. But If you plan ahead I highly recommend checking out one of the many options at Culinary Institute of America. You can read how I navigated CIA on my last visit here. Or you can head down to Pougkeepsie, like we did this time, and grab something from Lola’s Cafe and visit the Walkway over the Hudson. I had an excellent Ahi tuna wrap and Niki had a Thai chicken.
Please reach out to me at GoLoveNY if you'd like more information or would like us to plan your group outing!